At this point in our little quest I’m sitting in the back of a pickup truck hurtling across an ash plain in the shadow of Mt. Yasur. The scenery reminds me more of a moonscape than a tropical South Pacific Island. There’s ash everywhere.
Nope Nothing To See Here
Ahhh, The South Pacific; White sand beaches, crystal clear waters, spectacular reefs, and sun-filled days that melt into each other….. right? The mysterious island of Tanna lies about 500 miles SW of Fiji and has definitely eluded this stereotype.
Before reading this blog there are a few details that you may find entertaining. In Sulfur Bay, Tanna, Vanuatu at the base of a very active volcano exists a village known as the John Frum village.
Please be alarmed!!!! I have been kidnapped onto a boat named Delos. Who are these American sailors? I woke up one morning after a 2 week party binge, and I was sailing off into the direction of Vanuatu.
We’ve been in Vanuatu waters for almost a week now. The sail was incredibly smooth and peaceful, one of those passages that you really don’t want to end. Just endless sunny days of drifting along on huge, rolling swells.
Sunday sucked! Two church services, the longer of which started and ended in gale-ing cyclone weather. The only saving grace between the two church services was the lunch our new Fulagan mother cooked us. Ever eaten sea-grapes?
Like most people, I can recall some significant events in my life. I remember my first day of school, first sexual experience, and my first time breathing underwater. Fulaga was able to check a few more firsts off the list and make them unforgettable.
Our two months in Fiji passed by way to quick. We departed a few days ago and are sailing west, toward the islands of Vanuatu.
“What has been your favorite place?” This question is by far the most common we get from people and also the hardest to answer. The island of Fulaga (pronounced Fulanga) in the Lau group of Fiji may be the answer from now on.
Hi my name is Darren, I’m from Denman, Australia. I am 6 ft. 3 inches tall, weigh 80 kg. I have a hairy chest and I am a fantastic consumer of Alcohol except for Gin and Tonic and Guinness.
Isn’t it ironic that in a place world-famous for its bottled spring water the local villages often lack a dependable, clean water supply? Fiji bottled water is shipped all over the world at great expense and sold at a great profit while the village taps often run dry.
“Are you coming to church with us tomorrow?” Of course we are Timothy! We’re really interested in seeing the service. “OK, the first service is at 5AM and lasts until 6AM. At 6AM we start cooking all the days meals in the underground oven.
“Do you want to come spear fishing with us tomorrow?” Timothy asked. Of course we do Timothy, sounds like fun. “Ok then. Tomorrow morning we will pick you up in our fiber and we’ll dive in the pass.” Sounds like a plan. See you tomorrow.
“Pita- what kind of meat is she hacking up?” Brady asked. “A turtle caught this morning. Have you ever tasted sea turtle?” We all replied no.
When the Minister of Lau Affairs asked me where we wanted to go I told him I didn’t know, and that I would appreciate him recommending an island that was out of the way and very remote with a calm, safe lagoon to anchor Delos.
Since leaving Suva we’ve been island hopping on our way to the Lau group making short 20-30 mile days. It’s not the most direct route but we’re exploring and in no hurry.
“Don’t land in Suva, it’s dirty, unsafe, and a hassle to get officials to check you in. Plus it rains constantly and the anchorage smells like garbage.” Is what a grizzled old cruiser told us in Auckland.
Like most 24 year olds in this world right now, I’m unemployed. It’s not that I’m unqualified. Although, I have no idea what I’m qualified for. Yet, choosing to be gainfully unemployed is a more appealing career even.